Williamsburg, nestled along the river in northern Brooklyn, has perhaps been New York's fastest-changing neighborhood in the last decade. Now subject to a massive waterfront rezoning, the homeland of hipsters is threatened with doom, just as it was when actual poor people lived there a couple of years ago. As part of our series of Users Guides, we've sent Joshua David Stein and Richard Blakeley to report from Bedford Avenue, the Champs-Élysées of New York City.

Previously: Park Slope