"Charmingly disheveled," a touch of "mildew buildup"—never has a restaurant shared as many qualities with one of its owners as is the case with the Waverly Inn and Vanity Fair doge Graydon Carter. Today's Times yanks the reader by the tassles of his Belgian loafers into the gritty reality that is the Waverly Inn's hygiene situation. The conclusion: Meh, kinda dirty. In March, the restaurant failed a health inspection, garnering 38 violation points in the DOH's book. But, as Eric Konigsberg reports, "the Waverly Inn was reinspected by the city on Thursday, and passed this time, with a score of 22 points." That's still 9 points above average but good enough for a pass. A little less mouse excreta goes a long way. But today's write-up is less notable for who it names than for who it benefits.