New York Times restaurant critic Frank Bruni one-stars Keith McNally's new Morandi with a review notable for its level and venomous prolixity. If this is how he describes something as good, it's a super thing that he doesn't have children, unless you believe that article about the inverse power of praising kids, in which case it's a "desperate inconveniently hokey insane uncomfortable odd hackneyed" thing that he doesn't have children. Let's break it all down by word choice!