• Frank Bruni assesses the toll the recession's having on NYC restaurants. The silver lining: It's never been easier to snag a last-minute reservation. [NYT]
• A look inside Ortine, which opens on Wednesday. [GS]
• Expect further delays for Table 8 inside the Cooper Square Hotel. [Eater]
• Christophe Bellanca has landed at Laurent Tourondel's BLT Group. [TFB]
• Caracas Arepa Bar's Brooklyn outpost opens today. [BP]
• That can of Coke is going to cost you more pretty soon. Gov. David Paterson has proposed a 15% "obesity tax" on nondiet drinks. [NYDN]

♦ Sirio Maccioni is already looking at replacements for Le Cirque chef Christophe Bellanca. [Page Six]
♦ Julian Niccolini says says his customers at the Four Seasons aren't skipping power lunches because of Wall Street's woes, although they do seem to be ordering cheaper wines. [GS]
♦ The Eldridge's Matt Levine confirms the existence of laser-engraved admissions cards; he won't comment on whether Prince has ever turned up at the nightspot. [The Feedbag]
♦ A preview of what you can expect from Dovetail's brunch service, which starts this weekend. [GS]