Harold Dieterle's restaurant Perilla opened earlier this week in the West Village, almost exactly a year after he was named Top Chef. When we checked it out last night, Ruth Reichl, the former Times dining critic and current Gourmet editor, had just vacated the premises. But there were still personages and signifiers ample enough to give a taste of what Perilla really is.

Legend
 1-4 One of the three booths was filled by a double date: two young corporate types and their girlfriends. One guy's striped shirt was assiduously left approximately 45 % unbuttoned. The other sported French cuffs and a tie. The ladies were cut from the same standard issue fake-tanned cloth. In a game of Fuck/Marry/Kill, they'd always be Fuck. The party seemed to be enjoying the meal, though they periodically whined bout the lack of a cocktail menu. Oh yeah: The four of them went to the bathroom around nine times during the meal. Sadly, no cocaine was found on the top of the toilet

5: The design is probably the weakest part of the restaurant. Though supposedly Harold et al will be adding design elements, a couple of paintings of the Fairfield Westin Lobby school hung on the otherwise bare walls. This is also where Dieterle told me: "The only thing I learned about Top Chef is how to deal with fucked up shit."

6-7: This was our two-top. During the evening we were served octopus salad (meh) and roast local duck with foie gras bordelaise. The food is pretty good, or to put it in Bruni terms, not two star good but definitely a laudatory one star. This tabletop is also where I was eventually irrevocably separated from $200.

8: The hardwood floors, matched by the hardwood tables, suggest a classy joint. This is probably where most of the Top Chef prize money went. It shows. By the time we reach the lighting fixtures, it is clear Dieterle was roaming frantically the aisles of Home Depot, looking for cheap shit.

9: The Tin Ceiling. Ah the pressed tin ceiling. What started out as a cheaper alternative to the expensive plaster work in European homes in the 1890-1930's has itself becomea signifier for fancy-yet-casual restaurants (much like the Edison bulb). Here Dieterle draws himself closer to the bosom of American informality, a movement mirrored by the wine list (bottles of red, bottles of white, bottles of pink and bottles of bubblies).

10: We've seen this lighting fixture at every cheap-trying-to-be-upscale restaurant that's opened in the last five years. I think it's called "Sophistique" or something. Also, our second stepmother had this in her house in Atlanta, after the alimony settlement. So maybe just bad mems.

The restaurant is brand new and has a few kinks to work out (nicely, Dieterle is offering a 10% discount this week while said kinks are fixed). For the first week, and for a man who is chiefly known as being a hottish reality TV star, Perilla is a surprisingly legitimate restaurant. The food is better than the decor, and while the menu may be a bit too expensive for what it is that's probably the price you pay for a brush with semi-stardom. —Josh

[Photo: Kalina for Eater]