Best Recycling: 'New York' Mag's Porky Praise
It's New York's Best of New York Issue! So many superlatives! So many fine things in our city celebrated! Take, for instance, the award for "Best Pig." It goes, quite justly (it is fucking phenomenal) to 11 Madison Park's suckling-pig confit.
[Chef Daniel] Humm braises his Vermont-grown piglet to a kind of preternatural softness, pulls the meat from the bone, simmers everything in duck fat, and presses it into a little brick of golden-brown crispness. This Heath Bar-size confection is plated with cipollini onions and a spot of fresh-made plum chutney, and it's so full of crackly, porky flavor that you'll be tempted to finish, then order it again.
Sounds great. But also familiar!
[I]f you order one thing, make it the suckling pig, which the chef pulls from the bone, simmers in duck fat, and presses into a Heath Bar-size mini-confection, filled with such crackly, porky flavor that you just might want to order it again.
Oh, right, they mentioned that back in January's Where to Eat issue! Service with a smile, eh? Still, we can't help thinking that we've heard it once before. Maybe in the August review of the restaurant?
Then there is the suckling pig, which the chef pulls from the bone, simmers in duck fat, and presses into a crisp, Heath Bar-size confection filled with such crackly, porky flavor that I had to order it again on my next visit.
We guess so! A pig this good you don't write about all at once!
