NYP's Steve Cuozzo Abandons Restaurant Reviews in Favor of 'Insights'
Brace yourself, 'cause it's a big day in Postville. After years of frustrating himself with reviewing restaurants that morph so quickly that his critical response becomes quickly irrelevant, resident foodie Steve Cuozzo has decided to reshape the Post's restaurant reviews (crazy, we know, that sort of action coming from the paper's lead food critic). Instead of traditional criticism, Cuozzo will now write restaurant "updates." He says:
So from now on, The Post will tell you what's going on without pretending that what's true this week will be valid for all time - or even for the next month. Starting today, we're going to tackle restaurants in a different way.
Instead of trolling through one eatery each week, from the amuse-bouches through dessert, we'll tell you what's happening at more than one place, in the kitchen or on the floor. We'll aim to give you more useful - and interesting - information than you'll glean from reviews that read like cooking courses and turn stale overnight.
So what does this mean? Judging from this week's inaugural Tackling Restaurants in a Different Way, it involves a random tidbit on Craft: In the four years since the restaurant opened, the menu has evolved. Now you know. And where should we eat this weekend? No fucking clue. But Craft — it's different than it was. Useful insight, that.
