From Frank Bruni's 'Diner's Journal':

Few restaurants have a single telltale attribute by which anyone familiar with them identifies and remembers them. Aquavit did. For much of its history its public signature was not all that herring, although no other upscale Manhattan restaurant puts as intense and loving a spotlight on that fish, or the culinary hand of Marcus Samuelsson, although he is a chef of serious distinction.

Aquavit was the place with the waterfall.

Oh, and it's also the place where Times Publisher Arthur O. Sulzberger, Jr. first wooed Howell Raines to be his Executive Editor.

But the waterfall is great.
Diner's Journal: Aquavit [NYT]
My Times [The Atlantic]